Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Hokkaido Pumpkin Soup
I’ll just come right out and say it. I took pumpkin for granted. Guilty as charged. I refer to my pre-Denmark days when I could go to any supermarket and buy as much canned pumpkin as I wanted. This was also a time when I had yet to discover just how delightful and soul-satisfying a steaming bowl of pumpkin soup could be. Never a fan of pumpkin pie--I enjoy it more as I get older--in my kitchen pumpkin strictly had been relegated to baked goods, such as muffins, cookies, and pancakes.
A year or so ago I grew excited upon spotting a jar of “canned” pumpkin in my local Danish grocery store. It was a large jar that contained brightly colored orange spears...in some sort of clear liquid. Okay, well, not the kind of canned pumpkin I was used to, but pumpkin nonetheless. Even though I was put off by the orange flesh floating around in the jar, not so unlike animal fetuses in formaldehyde, I bought it anyway. When I got up the nerve to remove the lid I pierced a piece with a fork. It had a mysterious odor and it became clear that it was pickled in some sort of brine a la sweet pickles. I loathe sweet pickles. I plugged my nose and took a bite but the texture--rotten banana? overcooked cauliflower?--stopped me dead in my tracks. Let’s suffice it to say that the jar of pumpkin was short lived.
From that moment forward I pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I would lead a pumpkin-less existence, at least when it came to food.
That’s when I discovered the hokkaido (also known as red kuri, also known as potimarron). Oh thank heavens for Hokkaido. Hokkaido...let me count the ways. I was visiting a friend who served mugs of warm and spicy hokkaido soup. I about died. That’s dying in the good way. I seriously suspect this soup has medicinal qualities. It has depth. It has texture to end all textures. And the color? I could stare at it for hours. Okay, maybe I need more to do.
Hokkaido is small in size. It’s a bright, bright orange. It’s flavor is sweet and nutty. It’s easy to peel and less watery/more flavorful than big pumpkins. We’re not so far into October and I’m on my third batch of soup. Hokkaido starts to appear in the stores (and on roadside stands) here in mid- to late-September. Yesterday was another big day for me, along with a new hokkaido, I picked up the last two butternut squash at the veggie market. These are a bit of a rarity in my town. I rejoice simply because when one is living far from what one knows, it’s the little things that make a difference.
Hokkaido Pumpkin Soup
Ingredients:
800-900g (one biggish sized) Hokkaido, skin removed and flesh chopped.
3T olive oil
3 cloves of garlic
2t curry powder
2t cumin powder
2t koriander powder
2t nutmeg (preferably freshly grated)
1-inch piece of fresh ginger, grated
3c chicken or vegetable broth
1 can coconut milk
the zest and juice of 1 lime
salt and pepper
Directions:
Using a sharp knife, carefully remove the skin of the hokkaido and cut into pieces a bit larger than bite sized. Saute curry and garlic in olive oil. Add broth, pumpkin and spices and let cook until pumpkin is soft, 20-30 minutes. Puree using a hand blender or in an upright blender. Return to pan. Add coconut milk and lime juice. Serve.
Monday, October 1, 2012
Lemon, Olive, Parsley Quinoa Cakes
I’ve wanted to share this recipe for months. Months. That’s how fast time has been flying. It gets away from me all the time. Get back here, time. Right this instant. This meal has become a staple at our house. Here are the top five reasons you should hurry to your kitchen and whip some up:
1. They’re delicious. Duh.
2. Quinoa...whole grain, protein.
3. Green olives. The kind you use in Martinis. Kalamata are also a good pick.
4. They look pretty.
5. Excellent leftovers.
6. Bonus: vegetarian.
Don’t let the semi-involved instructions deter you. On the surface, it might seem time consuming, but forming and shaping little patties in your hands is sort of meditative. Sometimes I break the recipe into three steps: cook the quinoa up to a day ahead; prepare the patty mixture and refrigerate up to 24 hours; shape the mixture into disks and pan fry.
These are wonderful served warm on a bed of fresh baby spinach. I’ve had success spooning over either a mustardy vinaigrette or homemade basil pesto - both are amazing with these quinoa cakes.
I also like them cold. The one tip I have is to make your mixture moist enough before cooking. There is a fine line between a moist and tender texture and hockey pucks. You want to strike a nice balance between patties that are wet enough to stick together and keep their shape and those that fall apart when you put them in the pan.
Lemon, Olive, Parsley Quinoa Cakes
Adapted from Super Natural Every Day
Ingredients:
3c cooked quinoa
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2c grated parmesan
1/3c coarsely chopped green olives
1/3c chopped parsley
1T lemon zest
3/4c bread crumbs
1/2t salt
1/2t pepper or red pepper flakes
1-2T water
2T olive oil
Directions:
In a large bowl, toss together onion, garlic, cheese, olives, parsley, lemon zest, bread crumbs, salt and pepper, and cooled quinoa.
Add beaten eggs and stir until all of quinoa is moistened. If necessary, add more water, 1T at a time, to thoroughly moisten mixture. Err on the side of wet because the quinoa dries out during cooking.
Scoop mix by 2 tablespoons. Use clean, moist fingers to form into a patty.
Cook 4-5 minutes each side in hot olive oil. Brown and remove to a paper towel lined plate. Serve warm or cold.
Monday, September 24, 2012
Banana Fig Bread with Toasted Walnuts
I’m into quick breads lately. What’s not to love? Unlike most cake, it makes a convenient and healthyish breakfast. Enfold a slice in plastic wrap and it’s an easy-to-take-with you breakfast or snack. I have a long commute to my teaching job, so a big hunk of walnut-studded banana bread and a thermos of coffee help get me through the drive. Made with whole grain flour and yogurt it’s nutritious...but still a bit indulgent, too. Quick bread recipes also provide the basis for creativity. Zucchini bread updated with big, fat flakes of dried coconut is a hit...as is carrot bread chock full of dried, chopped dates.
In addition to their versatility, quick breads are so, um, quick, that before you know it, you can have homemade bread perfuming your kitchen and keeping you company for days. It has true staying power. Wrapped tightly in foil, it will keep well for up to a week. Like fine red wine, most quick breads actually improve with age.
Such is the case with Banana Fig Bread with Toasted Walnuts. Me and banana bread go back, way back, to the days when I couldn’t stomach the fruit in its natural state but would happily ingest it mashed up into batter and baked into a fragrant loaf of goodness. I’ve since made peace with the yellow boomerang, I even enjoy one on occasion--but always on the green side and never ever ever with brown spots, although ironically the darker the fruit the better the banana bread.
While my kitchen has manufactured (okay, made) countless loaves of classic banana bread, a new variety caught my eye. The key difference here being the addition of dried figs, which get chopped up into little pieces and stirred into the batter. What results is a sublime and wholesomely decadent treat. That’s oxymoron speak for good.
Banana Fig Bread with Toasted Walnuts
Adapted from Ted Allen
Ingredients:
1c chopped, toasted walnuts
1 1/3c all-purpose flour
2/3c whole wheat or other whole grain flour (spelt, graham, etc.)
1/2 brown sugar
1/4c sugar
1t baking soda
1/2t salt
3 large ripe bananas, mashed
1c dried figs, stemmed and diced
6T unsalted butter, melted (or 6T vegetable oil)
1/3c plain yogurt
2 large eggs
2t vanilla extract
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350F/180C
Whisk flours and next four ingredients in a large bowl. Set aside.
Combine bananas and next five ingredients in a medium bowl, stir in walnuts.
Fold banana mixture into flour mixture.
Spoon batter into a buttered and floured 9x5-in. loaf pan.
Bake 45-55 minutes or until a wooden toothpick comes out clean, shielding with foil as necessary (to prevent top from becoming too dark or burned).
Cool in pan on a wire rack 30 minutes.
Remove from pan; cool completely before slicing.
Monday, September 17, 2012
Lemon Faux Pudding
I like the word faux. There's not nearly enough moments in my life when I get to use it.
Ahem, when I lived in the U.S. I’d occasionally buy packets of flavored powder that were mixed with firm, silken tofu to make a pudding of sorts. I’d find them in the health food section and they came in chocolate and vanilla flavor. Although the powder's distinct tang would inevitably impart a slightly awkward mouth feel, it took at least seven or eight (okay, many) bites of pudding for me to tire of it. More important is the smooth texture. When mixed into a creamy state, the velvety character of a pudding made with tofu is, dare I say, far superior to its milk-made cousin.
In Denmark I’ve never come across the powder, so this homemade lemon variety is perfect. I’d wager that making your own over buying the powder is a better bet anyway. The other reason I was quick to make this version is the delectable crumble topping. It’s akin to granola but with fewer chunky additions and the inclusion of thyme, which pairs stunningly with lemon.
If you think tofu is gross and wouldn’t dare let it pass your lips, fuhgeddaboudit. Its extra lemony flavor--not to mention the creamy texture--is reason enough to put any tofu bias aside. Don’t be a tofuist. It’s not like being ageist or sexist, it’s worse. If you already embrace the tofu, there’s nothing else to say, is there?
Lemon Faux Pudding
Adapted from Joy the Baker
Pudding Ingredients:
1 block of firm silken tofu
2T fine cornmeal or semoule (I use the semoule I get in France)
pinch of sea salt
1/3 to 1/2c honey, depending on how sweet you want it
grated zest of one lemon
3T freshly squeezed lemon juice
Crumble Ingredients:
2T coconut oil, melted (can substitute with vegtable oil)
1/4t vanilla extract
2T granulated sugar
1/4t sea salt
3/4c rolled oats
1/4c unsweetened coconut (large flake or shredded)
1t fresh thyme leaves (I used dried)
For the pudding:
Wrap tofu between layers of paper towels and set aside for a few minutes to drain.
In a food processor (or using a strong hand in a mixing bowl) combine tofu, cornmeal, salt, honey, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Blend until completely smooth.
Refrigerate a minimum of 1 hour.
For the crumble topping:
Set oven to 350F/180C and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Combine all dry ingredients. Add melted coconut oil and vanilla and stir until mixture is thoroughly moistened.
Spread the mixture in the pan and bake until golden and fragrant, 12-18 minutes, depending on your oven.
Monday, April 30, 2012
Vegan Seed Cookies with Chocolate Chunks
Cookies
make the world go round. It might sound
grand, but I wholeheartedly believe it.
I have a vegan cookie for you that I’m pretty sure you’re going to
love. It’s a fun recipe to make with
kids. They can help you throw in the
ingredients, many of which are seeds.
This recipe is also terrific because it’s customizable. Is there a person out there who doesn’t like
to put their own personal spin on dessert?
An ice cream sundae tastes infinitely better with the topping of your
choice. I like caramel on mine. Chocolate is good too. And salted peanuts! You get
the point.
For the
record, I am not a vegan and have no plans to become one either. I do however enjoy baked goods and have a
life goal to try every dessert on the planet before I die. Forget “100 places to see before you die,”
for me it’s all about the sweets. But I
do try to eat healthfully most of the time.
If I make cake or pie for dessert then I will almost certainly prepare
dinner with lots of vegetables and healthy protein. I try to eat several servings of fruits and
vegetables every day if for no other reason than to counteract all the sugar,
chocolate, and butter I consume.This vegan cookie is a terrific option if you are looking for something sweet that still errs on the side of healthy. It’s chewy in the middle and crispy around the edges and contains tasty flecks of dark chocolate that complement the seeds and peanut flavors. It would be wonderful with dried fruit and shredded coconut, if that’s your thing. Mine contain sesame seeds and sunflower seeds but any seeds will do: poppy, pumpkin, and hemp are three that come to mind. Flax seeds are essential and you’ll want to “water” them to bring out the moisture before adding them to your wet ingredients. Actual water comes in handy too since you want a rather moist dough and the only moisture comes from the wet flax and peanut butter. You are welcome to try almond butter in addition to (or in substitution of) the peanut butter.
Vegan Seed Cookies with Chocolate Chunks
adapted from chocolateandzucchini.com
2T / 40g
whole flax seeds
2T / 40g mixed seeds of your choice (I used sesame and sunflower)
1/2c + 1T / 75g rye flour (substitute any other interesting flour such as buckwheat or whole-wheat)
1c + 2T / 150g all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
3/4c / 120g unrefined sugar
4T / 80g all-natural peanut butter (or 40g each peanut butter and almond butter)
2T / 40g chopped dark chocolate
2T / 40g mixed seeds of your choice (I used sesame and sunflower)
1/2c + 1T / 75g rye flour (substitute any other interesting flour such as buckwheat or whole-wheat)
1c + 2T / 150g all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
3/4c / 120g unrefined sugar
4T / 80g all-natural peanut butter (or 40g each peanut butter and almond butter)
2T / 40g chopped dark chocolate
Put the
flax seeds in a small bowl and cover with 80ml of water; set aside 10-15
minutes until mixture is thick.
In a medium
bowl, combine the seeds, flours, baking powder, sea salt, and chocolate pieces.
In another
bowl, beat together the wet flax seeds, sugar, and nut butter(s) until
smooth. Fold in the flour mixture,
adding a little water as needed for the dough to come together. It should be slightly sticky.
Transfer
the dough onto a piece of parchment paper and roll it up into a log about 2 inches or 5cm
in diameter. Place the log in the
freezer for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until firm enough to slice neatly.Preheat the oven to 350F / 175C and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Cut the log into slices, about 1/2 inch or 1cm in thickness, and place them on the cookie sheet, giving them a little room to expand.
Bake for 12-15minutes, until golden and slightly dark around the edges. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Dutch Oven Fig and Walnut Bread
Over the last few years or so it’s been my habit to hastily dismiss recipes that involve a dutch oven. The reason? I don’t have one. Er, didn’t think I did is technically more accurate. I would see recipe photos of great looking stews and slow cooked meats and think Nope, I’ll have to revisit that the day I have a dutch oven. Wouldn’t you know that it would be an inspiring recipe for fig and walnut bread baked in one of these covered vessels that would break me.
I found myself plotting how I could carry out my new found mission: would I need to go out and lay down my hard earned Danish Kroner for one, or could I somehow get creative and pull it off using what I had on hand? But just as much as I didn’t want to shell out big money, I also realized I had no oven-safe pot that was deep enough to accommodate the risen dough or a cover to top it with for that matter. The lid is essential to perfectly lovely crust.
Thankfully, to quote Oprah, I had an Aha! moment. I asked my husband if we still had the cast iron pot in storage with the camping equipment. He said it should be there so I pulled on my boots and trudged down to the basement. After tripping over boxes, suitcases, and other—let’s face it—junk, I located said camping box. I opened the lid but could not easily see the cast iron pot. My hopes dashed, I began to rapidly toss things out of the box. There it sat at bottom of the box, cradled in its own box. I swear it winked at me, just as I imagine old dolls and teddy bears wink when they’ve been rediscovered.
I carefully carried it upstairs and unwrapped it gently as if it were fine china. Never mind that it is heavier than any kitchen appliance I’ve ever lifted. There was some oil residue left over from the last time it was seasoned and since it had been awhile, I seasoned it again. If you’re not familiar with this process, it’s what keeps the insides of the pot food-friendly. An unseasoned pot can become rusty and an unappetizing container in which to cook food. To season, you simply rub with a little vegetable oil, stick it upside down in a medium warm oven, so the excess oil can drip out, and heat for one hour. After the hour is up the heat gets turned off and the pot is cooled completely and brought to room temperature in the oven. Seasoned in this way a pot might only need re-seasoning every year or so, perhaps longer depending on how often it is used.
This is what I love about this recipe: it’s bread (duh!), there is no kneading involved (good for those days when your muscles have already had a workout), it develops an amazingly crisp crust, and it’s got wonderful dried figs, gently toasted walnuts, and cinnamon. There was however one thing missing: a sufficient amount of salt. The recipe does call for it, but I’ve increased the amount because I would have enjoyed the bread even more with more salt. Another word to the wise: (Yes I am being heavy handed with the colons, it’s just that kind of day) I believe I prematurely removed the lid from my cast iron pot. Once you remove it, the top browns very rapidly. Make sure that your bread is sufficiently cooked on the inside before you remove the lid. Mine wasn’t doughy, thank goodness, but it could have benefited from a few more minutes of steam under the cover.
In case you are interested, I use a 6-quart Lodge cast iron pot. Lodge is one of the oldest makers of cast iron in the United States. I do not know whether this brand is available in Europe, but surely there are other options. My husband bought ours six years ago for $39.99 (~ 350DKK), a total steal in my opinion. We’ve mainly used it for camping, but now I feel comfortable incorporating it into the kitchen more. I just need help lifting it in and out of the oven.
Dutch Oven Fig and Walnut Bread
Adapted from dinnerwithjulie.com
Adapted from dinnerwithjulie.com
3c all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon dry active yeast
2t salt
pinch of sugar
1/2c chopped, dried figs
1/2c chopped, toasted walnuts
2t ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon dry active yeast
2t salt
pinch of sugar
1/2c chopped, dried figs
1/2c chopped, toasted walnuts
2t ground cinnamon
In a large bowl stir together flour, yeast, salt, and sugar. Add 1 3/4c luke-warm water and stir until blended. Dough will be shaggy and sticky. Add the figs, nuts, and cinnamon and stir to combine.
Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let sit on the counter 18 to 24 hours.
The dough is ready when the surface is slightly wet looking and bubbly. Put a piece of parchment paper on the counter and scrape dough out onto it. Dust generously with flour and fold dough over itself a couple times. Sprinkle with a little more flour and cover with a tea towel. Let sit minimum 1 hour, maximum 4 hours.
Preheat oven to 450F. Put a 6-8 quart heavy covered pot in the oven as it heats. Pull it out of the oven and lift up the dough on parchment and drop it into the pot (parchment and all). Cover with lid.
Bake 30 minutes with lid. Uncover and bake another 10-15 minutes until crusty and golden.
Cool on a wire rack before cutting.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Triple Chocolate Avocado Brownies
Did you know that, besides their beguiling shape, texture, and flavor, avocados are technically a fruit? In 1970s America it was chic to have avocado green kitchen appliances. Nothing can erase my memories of ovens and refrigerators the color of rotting peas. As much reverence as I have for the avocado, it does not translate well to appliances. Or shag carpet for that matter. Then there were the times I tried in vain to grow my own avocado tree by sticking toothpicks into the seed and placing it carefully over a jar of water. Has anyone ever had success with that? I have a friend from Tanzania who recalls eating avocados by the dozen, right off the tree. She warned that this is not necessarily a diet friendly approach.
But unless you sit down to avocados for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it’s highly unlikely you’ll get fat eating them. What’s more, the number of reasons to include avocados as part of your regular diet far outweighs the risk of putting on pounds. Avocados contain unsaturated fat, also known as the good fat. It is believed that this type of fat helps to activate the part of your brain that makes you feel full. Alas, a feeling we don’t get with French fries. Avocados also contain folic acid, fiber, and an antioxidant that is believed to protect against eye disease.
Apart from the ubiquitous guacamole, there are myriad ways to incorporate this wonder fruit into your kitchen. Dessert, for example. It might seem strange, but it really works. Avocados make for a killer chocolate mousse. The fact is they marry extremely well with chocolate, as evidenced by Triple Chocolate Avocado Brownies.
These brownies are worth every second of the miniscule effort to make them. I was somewhat apprehensive about the texture of the finished product since, compared with traditional recipes, the amount of fat and sugar is significantly reduced. But I was pleasantly surprised. While slightly more cakey, they are still moist and soft. The gooeyness factor is minimized, but I didn’t miss it. I actually enjoy that they are sweet but not cloyingly so, another feature of the usual culprit. That they are sort of a health food doesn’t hurt, either. My 4-year old wouldn’t touch an avocado to save his life, but he was crazy about the brownies. Did I mention they contain Nutella?
Triple Chocolate Avocado Brownies
Adapted from Tastes Better with Friends
Ingredients
1/4c / 60g unsalted butter – room temperature
1/2c / 115g brown sugar
1 egg
2 ripe, mashed avocados
1/3c / 75g Nutella
1c / 225g flour
1/4c / 60g cocoa powder (unsweetened)
1t / 10g baking powder
1t / 10g sea salt
1t / 10g vanilla extract
1/4c / 60g chocolate chips (or chopped dark chocolate)
1/4c / 60g sliced, toasted almonds
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 180C, and grease a 20 or 23cm baking dish.
2. Beat the butter and sugar well.
3. Add the egg, avocados, and Nutella. Beat well.
4. Sift and add the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt and beat again.
5. Gently stir in the vanilla, almonds, and chocolate chips.
6. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for approximately 20 minutes. Depending on your oven, you might need to undercook slightly or bake for an additional 5 minutes. Check after 20 minutes.
7. Cool for 15-20 minutes and cut into squares.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Fig Butter
If you like apple butter, you will love fig butter. Fig butter ups the ante with its spices, red wine, and port. I first tried it when I undertook these delicious scones, which are really more like a fancy version of cinnamon rolls minus the yeast. But this time I skipped the scones altogether, doubled the batch of fig butter, and spooned it into jars for Christmas gifts. It's wonderful on toast and pancakes, and you can just as easily add some to baked goods, such as muffins or your favorite quick bread.
Fig Butter
Adapted from Good to the Grain: Baking with Whole Grain Flours by Kim Boyce
Ingredients
1/2c sugar
2 whole cloves
1 star anise
1c red wine
1/2c port
12oz. dried figs, stems removed
1/4t cinnamon
4oz. (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
Directions
1. To poach the figs, measure 1/4c water and the sugar into a small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir the mixture together with a wooden spoon, incorporating the sugar without splashing it up the sides. Add the cloves and star anise.
2. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the syrup is amber-colored.
3. Add the red wine, port, figs, and cinnamon, standing back a bit, as the syrup is hot. Don't panic when the syrup hardens; this is the normal reaction when liquids are added to hot sugar. Continue cooking the mixture over medium heat for 2 minutes, until the sugar and wine blend.
4. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The figs will burble quietly as they are jostled together by the heat. They are ready when the wine has reduced by half. Remove the pan from the stove and cool to room temperature. [I let mine sit overnight.]
5. Fish our the star anise and cloves. Pour the cooled figs, with their liquid, into a food processor and puree until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the softened butter to the fig paste and process until smooth. The fig butter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Panforte
Panforte, the traditional Tuscan Christmas confection, is not for the faint of heart. Its flavors are bold. So is its texture. That’s not surprising since the recipe includes 18 ingredients, most of which are nuts and dried fruits. But what would panforte be without its stars: nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, and coriander? I am all about spicy tastes this time of year. I love Danish pebernødder nearly as much as the traditional gingerbread cookies I grew up making in the U.S. I also make a wonderful fig butter that consists of dried figs stewed in a vat of wine, port, sugar, star anise, cloves, and cinnamon until the mixture is soft, thick, and syrupy. It makes a wonderful gift.
So does panforte. Apart from the taste, smell, and dramatic look of this chewy, fruit- and nut-studded cake, it’s most special when shared. I cut mine into large wedges and wrap in baking paper for a rustic look. I tie each bundle with a piece of brown twine or red and white checkered ribbon and suggest recipients enjoy a small slice with a mug of hot tea or coffee.
The other reason that panforte is not to be taken lightly is that it takes some planning and time to pull it all together. There is nothing particularly difficult about it, unless you find candying your own fruit peel difficult. In that case, see if you can buy some. I treated the recipe like a puzzle that I worked on over time--three days to be exact. I find it much more manageable, not to mention enjoyable, if I break a recipe like this down into steps. First, I candied the quince. And please, do not let an inaccessibility to quince stop you from making panforte. Just up the candied orange peel or substitute another candied fruit.
The day after I conquered the quince, I moved on to the orange peel. I find that putting the fruit to cook on a back burner while I make dinner or wash dishes is the best way to accomplish this task. I stored both batches of candied fruit in my fridge for a day and worked on toasting the nuts. Then came the assembly. The prep time was key. Had I attempted to complete the whole thing in one shot I would have been annoyed, tired, and hurrying to finish it. Instead, the assembly was a breeze and I could relax while patiently awaiting the finished product.
Panforte
Adapted from Tartine Cookbook and The Wednesday Chef
Ingredients
8oz / 225g candied quince, strained and coarsely chopped
3oz / 100g candied orange peel, strained and coarsely chopped
1c / 225g dates, pitted and coarsely chopped
1c / 225g prunes, pitted and coarsely chopped
3/4c / 175g currants
2T / 30g grated orange zest
1T / 15g grated lemon zest
1c / 225g lightly toasted unsalted pistachios
2c / 450g well-toasted hazelnuts
2c / 450g well-toasted almonds
2/3c / 150g flour
1/2c / 115g cocoa powder
1T / 15g ground cinnamon
Freshly grated nutmeg from 1 1/2 nutmegs
3/4t / 7g ground coriander
3/4t / 7g freshly ground black pepper
3/4t / 7g ground cloves
3/4c / 175g honey
1 1/3c / 325g granulated sugar
1/4c / 60g powdered sugar
Directions
1. Heat the oven to 160 degrees. Butter a 26cm springform pan, line with parchment paper, and butter the parchment, making sure to butter the sides of the pan well.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the candied quince and orange zest, dates, currants, orange and lemon zest, and all of the nuts. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, pepper and cloves over the fruits and nuts. Mix well. Set aside.
3. In a deep, heavy saucepan, combine the honey and granulated sugar over medium-high heat. Stir gently with a wooden spoon from time to time to make sure that no sugar is sticking to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the mixture registers 120 degrees on a thermometer, about 3 minutes. The mixture will be frothy and boiling rapidly.
4. Remove from the heat and immediately pour over the fruit-and-flour mixture in the bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate the syrup thoroughly with the other ingredients. Work quickly at this point; the longer the mixture sits, the firmer it becomes.
5. Transfer to the springform pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in water. Bake until the top is slightly puffed and looks like a brownie, about 1 hour. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Run a knife around the edge to loosen and turn out of the pan and cool completely.
6. Sift powdered sugar over the top, bottom and sides of the panforte. Lightly tap it over the counter to shake off excess sugar. It will keep, well wrapped, in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks, or indefinitely in the refrigerator.
So does panforte. Apart from the taste, smell, and dramatic look of this chewy, fruit- and nut-studded cake, it’s most special when shared. I cut mine into large wedges and wrap in baking paper for a rustic look. I tie each bundle with a piece of brown twine or red and white checkered ribbon and suggest recipients enjoy a small slice with a mug of hot tea or coffee.
The other reason that panforte is not to be taken lightly is that it takes some planning and time to pull it all together. There is nothing particularly difficult about it, unless you find candying your own fruit peel difficult. In that case, see if you can buy some. I treated the recipe like a puzzle that I worked on over time--three days to be exact. I find it much more manageable, not to mention enjoyable, if I break a recipe like this down into steps. First, I candied the quince. And please, do not let an inaccessibility to quince stop you from making panforte. Just up the candied orange peel or substitute another candied fruit.
The day after I conquered the quince, I moved on to the orange peel. I find that putting the fruit to cook on a back burner while I make dinner or wash dishes is the best way to accomplish this task. I stored both batches of candied fruit in my fridge for a day and worked on toasting the nuts. Then came the assembly. The prep time was key. Had I attempted to complete the whole thing in one shot I would have been annoyed, tired, and hurrying to finish it. Instead, the assembly was a breeze and I could relax while patiently awaiting the finished product.
Panforte
Adapted from Tartine Cookbook and The Wednesday Chef
Ingredients
8oz / 225g candied quince, strained and coarsely chopped
3oz / 100g candied orange peel, strained and coarsely chopped
1c / 225g dates, pitted and coarsely chopped
1c / 225g prunes, pitted and coarsely chopped
3/4c / 175g currants
2T / 30g grated orange zest
1T / 15g grated lemon zest
1c / 225g lightly toasted unsalted pistachios
2c / 450g well-toasted hazelnuts
2c / 450g well-toasted almonds
2/3c / 150g flour
1/2c / 115g cocoa powder
1T / 15g ground cinnamon
Freshly grated nutmeg from 1 1/2 nutmegs
3/4t / 7g ground coriander
3/4t / 7g freshly ground black pepper
3/4t / 7g ground cloves
3/4c / 175g honey
1 1/3c / 325g granulated sugar
1/4c / 60g powdered sugar
Directions
1. Heat the oven to 160 degrees. Butter a 26cm springform pan, line with parchment paper, and butter the parchment, making sure to butter the sides of the pan well.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the candied quince and orange zest, dates, currants, orange and lemon zest, and all of the nuts. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, pepper and cloves over the fruits and nuts. Mix well. Set aside.
3. In a deep, heavy saucepan, combine the honey and granulated sugar over medium-high heat. Stir gently with a wooden spoon from time to time to make sure that no sugar is sticking to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the mixture registers 120 degrees on a thermometer, about 3 minutes. The mixture will be frothy and boiling rapidly.
4. Remove from the heat and immediately pour over the fruit-and-flour mixture in the bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate the syrup thoroughly with the other ingredients. Work quickly at this point; the longer the mixture sits, the firmer it becomes.
5. Transfer to the springform pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in water. Bake until the top is slightly puffed and looks like a brownie, about 1 hour. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Run a knife around the edge to loosen and turn out of the pan and cool completely.
6. Sift powdered sugar over the top, bottom and sides of the panforte. Lightly tap it over the counter to shake off excess sugar. It will keep, well wrapped, in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks, or indefinitely in the refrigerator.
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Vegan Fruit and Nut Cookies
Contrary to what you might think, the words cookie and vegan are not an oxymoron. Really. Let me say up front, I am not nor will ever be vegan. I couldn’t live without bacon. Or cheese. And a rich brownie without a glass of cold milk? Forget it. But I love baked goods, including, it turns out, vegan cookies.
While I wholeheartedly believe that the western world consumes entirely too much meat--at the expense of our heath and the environment--I also believe that one can enjoy animal products to the fullest in moderation without foregoing them entirely. American food writer and critic Mark Bittman is a self proclaimed “vegetarian before 6:00 p.m.” That is to say, Bittman, author of the best selling cookbooks How to Cook Everything and How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, eats plant foods all day long, but at dinner enjoys a regular meal of, say, pasta, cheese, vegetables, perhaps a small steak even. In this way, he reduces his carbon footprint while at the same time improving and maintaining his overall health. There are also “Meatless Mondays,” an increasingly global effort to forgo meat at least once a week.
So what does all this have to do with today’s recipe? Simple. Instead of turning to your stand-by cookie that contains butter and eggs, why not try one that not only tastes fantastic but is made sans animal products. Some might argue that it's better for you and the planet.
Loaded with fruit, nuts, and coconut, it’s the perfect treat alongside a mug of hot tea or coffee. Just the thing to warm up during these chilly fall days. Go ahead and play with the ingredients. Can’t find dried blueberries? Cranberries are a great substitute. No shelled pistachios on hand? Pumpkin seeds, walnuts, or sliced almonds are an equally good bet. If you are feeling health-conscious, political, or environmental, these cookies fit the bill. On the other hand, it’s totally okay if you just want a sweet treat.
Delicious Vegan Cookies
Adapted from Alicia Silverstone's recipe
1c /250 ml rolled oats
3/4c /175 ml all-purpose flour
1/3c /75 ml brown sugar
1t /5.0 ml (small spoonful) cream of tartar (omit if unavailable to you)
1t /5.0 ml baking soda
1/2t /2.5 ml sea salt
1/3c /80 g maple syrup
1/2c /115 g vegetable oil
1t /5.0 ml vanilla extract
1/4c /60 ml dried blueberries (or cranberries, raisins, apricots)
1/4c /60 ml toasted pistachios (or other nuts)
1/4c /60 ml unsweetened coconut flakes
Directions
1. Mix the oats, flour, brown sugar, tartar (if using), soda, and salt in a large bowl.
2. Stir in syrup, oil, and vanilla.
3. Fold in dried fruit, nuts, and coconut.
4. Wet your hands with water; use your hands to shape the dough into small balls of uniform size.
5. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, slightly flatten ball with the palm of your hand.
6. Bake at 350F /180C for 8-12 minutes or until tops are slightly golden. Let cool 5 minutes on baking sheet before removing to a wire rack.
Makes 12-15 cookies, depending on the size of your dough balls.
While I wholeheartedly believe that the western world consumes entirely too much meat--at the expense of our heath and the environment--I also believe that one can enjoy animal products to the fullest in moderation without foregoing them entirely. American food writer and critic Mark Bittman is a self proclaimed “vegetarian before 6:00 p.m.” That is to say, Bittman, author of the best selling cookbooks How to Cook Everything and How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, eats plant foods all day long, but at dinner enjoys a regular meal of, say, pasta, cheese, vegetables, perhaps a small steak even. In this way, he reduces his carbon footprint while at the same time improving and maintaining his overall health. There are also “Meatless Mondays,” an increasingly global effort to forgo meat at least once a week.
So what does all this have to do with today’s recipe? Simple. Instead of turning to your stand-by cookie that contains butter and eggs, why not try one that not only tastes fantastic but is made sans animal products. Some might argue that it's better for you and the planet.
Loaded with fruit, nuts, and coconut, it’s the perfect treat alongside a mug of hot tea or coffee. Just the thing to warm up during these chilly fall days. Go ahead and play with the ingredients. Can’t find dried blueberries? Cranberries are a great substitute. No shelled pistachios on hand? Pumpkin seeds, walnuts, or sliced almonds are an equally good bet. If you are feeling health-conscious, political, or environmental, these cookies fit the bill. On the other hand, it’s totally okay if you just want a sweet treat.
Delicious Vegan Cookies
Adapted from Alicia Silverstone's recipe
1c /250 ml rolled oats
3/4c /175 ml all-purpose flour
1/3c /75 ml brown sugar
1t /5.0 ml (small spoonful) cream of tartar (omit if unavailable to you)
1t /5.0 ml baking soda
1/2t /2.5 ml sea salt
1/3c /80 g maple syrup
1/2c /115 g vegetable oil
1t /5.0 ml vanilla extract
1/4c /60 ml dried blueberries (or cranberries, raisins, apricots)
1/4c /60 ml toasted pistachios (or other nuts)
1/4c /60 ml unsweetened coconut flakes
Directions
1. Mix the oats, flour, brown sugar, tartar (if using), soda, and salt in a large bowl.
2. Stir in syrup, oil, and vanilla.
3. Fold in dried fruit, nuts, and coconut.
4. Wet your hands with water; use your hands to shape the dough into small balls of uniform size.
5. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, slightly flatten ball with the palm of your hand.
6. Bake at 350F /180C for 8-12 minutes or until tops are slightly golden. Let cool 5 minutes on baking sheet before removing to a wire rack.
Makes 12-15 cookies, depending on the size of your dough balls.
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